Airborne Lingerie

 Believe me, I am fully aware that this kind of road trip isn’t for everyone. I’m still not even sure it’s for me. It goes without saying that not everybody would, of their own volition, drive 4 - 6 hours every day and stay in 6 different hotels in 7 days. For example, when Caitlin & I were discussing itineraries the other day, this is what she came up with:

“I already know what I would do. 

Late morning coffee in bed. Stare out window. Walk around. 2nd coffee. Lunch. People watch. Then Hot Springs. Sushi. Bedtime.”

Whereas I, although technically only having to drive 2 hours from Yusuhara to Kochi, decided that instead I would drive 3 hours to Cape Ashizuri, the southernmost tip of Shikoku, and then drive another 3 hours back up to Kochi. Hard to defend that kind of behaviour. As Junior Walker would say, “I’m a Roadrunner, baby.” Probably the poster boy for severe ADHD as well, but that’s another story.

The entire trip is easily summed up:

A nice, but incongruous beach

A very scenic view and lovely walking trail 

Kochi itself can also be quickly summed up:

Yep. Another castle. I didn’t even bother going inside as I have definitely reached the “Cathedral, cathedral, cathedral” stage. I promise I won’t inflict any more upon you, except perhaps Himeji, which is supposed to be very special. We see.

The highlight of my brief visit to Kochi was Hirome Market. It’s a huge indoor (of course) space, full of more eating choices than you can shake a stick at, that surround countless tables. Get your grub, grab a seat whereever you can & chow down.

After a few confusing circles of the place, which didn’t really help at all due to the chaos and the fact that everything was in Japanese, I figured I’d go with the Kochi’s beloved dish, katsuo no tataki, which is basically skipjack tuna seared over a straw fire so the outside is blackened but the inside is still raw. Sounded sketchy, but when in Rome…

Yummy, yummy in my tummy 

I was fortunate enough to grab a seat with a family of three (a Dad & teenage son & daughter), who greeted me with “Cheers!” and then allowed me to nibble before my usual Google Translate conversation.

And so much for Kochi. I don’t want to sound dismissive or denigrating, but, as I’ve already mentioned, for the most part Japanese cities are just like Canadian cities - a whole lot of nothing interrupted by a few worthwhile somethings. Not a bad thing, just a thing.

Japanese Fun Facts

Let’s talk hotels - business hotels. With a couple of notable exceptions, I’ve stayed exclusively in them and let me tell you I LOVE THEM. How do I love them? Let me count the ways:

1. They’re everywhere. There are an overwhelming number of chains - Route Inn, APA Hotel, Super Hotel, Daiwa Roynet Hotel, Dormy Inn and Toyoko Inn - just to name a few. I’ve always been able to get a room at one of them, no problem.

2. They’re, for the most part, Western. So I don’t have to sleep or eat on the floor. The one fly in the ointment - breakfast. Whooo! Total disaster , as I will illustrate in an upcoming post.

3. They’re very well equipped. Invariably they have a fridge, a kettle with tea, air conditioning, vending machines, a bathroom with a tub/shower (NOT a given in most ryokans) and every amenity you can think of (including pyjamas and often an onsen). I’m sure I’m still forgetting things. There’s that much.

4. They’re well located. So far, I’ve been able to walk to everything I wanted to see.

5. They are SO clean.

6. They’re SO cheap. I pay between $80 - $100 for a room - a nice room. Try finding that anywhere in North America. Not gonna happen.

However…do NOT,  under any circumstances, attempt to check in before 3:00 because if you do, you will be told, firmly & politely, that …well, you know.

So…if you’re absolutely hung up on having an “authentic” Japanese experience, be my guest. If you want easy, affordable, comfortable and reliable accommodation, jump on the business hotel bandwagon. Just don’t eat the breakfast.