I’m willing to bet that by now you’ve had just about enough of Uganda. Me too. So here’s what we’re gonna do. I’m going to give you a few last glimpses, then give Uganda my Marco Mark, then head off into the sunset. Next stop: Madagascar.
My stay at Bush Lodge was distinguished by:
my inability to get into Queen Elizabeth Park because my permit had expired by one hour (see previous post. Fuckers!),
my lovely “Giant Forest Hog” cabin,
and, finally, a drive to Katwe, a “quaint” town with a salt-making factory that I didn’t tour. Here’s a few photos just to show you what I meant by “shitty little towns.” And, believe me, there are MUCH worse
Here’s the obligatory “Equator” shot. This is so typically Uganda.
“You need to have something at the equator for tourists.”
“Really? Fine. Here’s a sign. Now fuck off.”
Okay, last story - I hope.
I stopped at a gas station on the way here and the guy who washed my windshield and his buddies called me over & told me my left front tire had a faulty valve that they’d be more than happy to fix - for 70000 shillings.
“Aha!” I thought.”Don’t try to pull that shit on me. I’m a wily African veteran.”
So I respectfully declined. 3 hours later (after yet another Google Maps disaster that took me through the Middle of Nowhere and back again, with friendly, helpful residents constantly telling me, ”Oh yes. Two kilometres that way.”) I finally arrived at Kibale Forest Camp, where one of the employees pointed at my car & said, ”Excuse me, sir. You have a problem with your tire.” Sure enough. The very same tire. Oops.
However, this is Africa, so a mechanic was called, who showed up on a motorcycle with his friend, carrying all his tools and a jack. He removed the wheel, carried it back to town ON THE MOTORCYCLE and returned shortly with the repaired tire. Turns out it wasn’t the valve, so I felt somewhat vindicated. The cost? $30. Welcome to Africa.
UGANDA PROS
Gorillas
People: very friendly - sometimes TOO friendly
Gorillas
Weather: nice and warm - sometimes TOO warm
Gorillas
Still not too touristy
UGANDA CONS
Cost: way more expensive than you would imagine or than it should be I had camping gear, but after checking out 2 campsites (and their “Banda huts”, which would need upgrading to qualify as hovels), I abandoned that idea. $50US gets you a big tent with shared bathroom & showers. A deluxe tent with 2 meals is $125 - 150. Yikes! Not to mention park fees and the obligatory guides.
Scenery: nice, sometimes VERY nice, but not jaw-dropping and not as often as you’d hope. I’m told the North is beautiful, but by the same people who rave about this area, so…grain of salt.
Travel: “horrendous” is the word that comes to mind. Paved roads are littered with speed bumps and dirt roads (of which there are many) range from uncomfortable - no matter what kind of vehicle you’re in. Land Cruisers are noted for ruggedness, NOT comfort - to downright dangerous. A deal breaker.
Food: with the exception of the “rolex” (a wrap with egg, vegetable, incredible sauce and meat if you want it), chapatis and bbq corn on the cob, nothing special, although I suppose those 3 might be enough. I confess I ate most of my meals at lodges. Once you’re there…and the food is exactly what you’d expect. Africans simply don’t get the concept of “hot” breakfast. (“Look, Ngandu, I don’t understand it either. Just cook the eggs, bread and bacon until they’re very brown, wait half an hour and bring it out.”).
Marco Mark: C
Would I return? No. Nothing personal.
Would I recommend it? For gorilla freaks, yes. Honestly, I can’t think of anyone else who’d even ask.
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