Oh My Gaudi!

 I have a confession: I’m in love.
You heard me right - unadulterated, head-over-heels in love. And the fact that the object of my affection has been dead for almost a hundred years doesn’t bother me a bit.
I’m assuming that’s going to require an explanation.

One of the reasons I was looking forward to visiting Barcelona (aside from the food, of course) was a chance to see the Sagrada Familia, the famous church designed by Antoni Gaudi which has been under construction for well over a hundred years. But this was tempered by the old European mantra, “Cathedral, Cathedral, Cathedral” and my unwavering allegiance to Frank Lloyd Wright, in my humble opinion the sine qua non of architecture.

Well, sweet Jesus on a stick! I was absolutely unprepared for the sheer genius and imagination of Señor Gaudi. I would say he’s like Frank Lloyd Wright on acid, but it goes so far beyond that it’s laughable. As a result of my epiphany, I’ve spent the vast majority of my time here wandering from one Gaudi masterpiece to the next with my mouth hanging open and my head in the clouds. I think, as always, better to show you than try to explain. I will say that you should keep in mind that these buildings were conceived and built in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Let’s start at the beginning:

Casa Vicens: first commission in 1883, when he was 30.

Palau Guell: built for his wealthy banker friend & patron. Finished in 1890.

Casa Batllo: completely redid existing building. Finished in 1904 and NOT particularly popular with The Powers That Be. Not that Gaudi gave a flying fuck. Really starting to “get it on” as we say in the building business.

Sagrada Família: the Holy Grail, in every possible way. Gaudi, a deeply religious man, took over this commission and dedicated the remainder of his life to it, although it was only about 20% completed when he died. Supposedly, he eschewed detailed drawings and plans, preferring to sketch and then build 3D models. I cannot emphasize enough just how stupendous this building is. Photos can’t even begin to capture either the sheer size or the beauty. It’s ridiculous.

Just to give you an idea, those 8 spires are 170 metres tall. And there are going to be 10 more of them.

Gaudi actually lived in the Sagrada Familia for the last year of his life. Ironically (in my opinion), he was on his way to confession when he was run over by a tram. Owing to his complete devotion to his work and the resulting lack of, shall we say, personal hygiene, people assumed he was a beggar, and by the time he was actually recognized and brought to hospital it was too late. No comment. 

Enough. By now I hope I’ve demonstrated why Gaudi has joined my very limited pantheon of superheroes. Coincidentally, I also visited the Picasso Museum here and drove to Salvador Dali’s house and museum further up the coast. Talk about your Holy Trinity. Aside from their staggering talent and otherworldly creativity, it struck me that all three are also characterized by a prodigious body of work, as though they simply couldn’t resist the unrelenting flow of ideas running through their brains. And what I wouldn’t give to get a glimpse inside those brains, although I’d be terrified of some Star Trek scenario, “Yes, his puny human brain just couldn’t handle it. Madness was inevitable.”

Well, I may not BE a genius, but I take consolation in my unerring ability to recognize and appreciate it.